Splurge

The rest of the delegation returned to Denmark at the end of the week and then Ellen came so we could share a couple of days in Stockholm. We started out with a fabulous meal at Lisa på Torget. The mouthwatering piles of seafood in the Saluhal had given us an appetite for shellfish. The lobster was a treat. There's a first for everything and this was great.

Den gyldene freden

It was rumored the Academy had dinner at Den Dyldene Freden, the evening we dined there. Perhaps they did and if they didn't it was a fascinating place anyway. The restaurant was in three level. We ate in the lowest cellar behind a pair of huge hand carved doors.

Changing the guard

Time between meetings offered a real tourist moment. You know you are in Sweden when the Royal Guard play Abba.

Gamla stan

The old centre of Stockholm is spectacular: Narrow streets, small shops with handicrafts, galleries and small cafes. Saco the Swedish confederation of professions is situated in the outskirts in a wonderful house build up of beautifully carved sandstone.

Östermalm saluhall

Next stop Stockholm. After the days meetings I took a turn in the neighborhood. There is a peculiar dominance of dry cleaners and manicure stores in the area. And then the town market with an abundance of meat, cheese, vegetables and fish. If it wasn't for the suitcase I could be tempted to go on a shopping spree.

The end

And with a final view of the inland ice the time has come to bid adieu to Greenland. Today's flight has been another fantastic demonstration of nature's beauty. Blue sky, high sun and a perfect view of the many many glaciers which run their way inland to the fjords. Some snake their way until they reach water others seem to tumble over the cliffs like lemmings. It has been a great trip. Succesful workwise and the experience just perfect.

Chocolate factory

They love euphemisms in Nuuk. This ought to be easy to guess. No need to be so concerned about sewage polution when you have vast waters surrounding a sparsely inhabited country.

Morning has broken

Building season is short in Greenland so constriction work goes on whenever there is light. So who cares if you have to use an airdrill in front of Nuuks largest hotel at 6.30 in the morning! We got up early and fortunately it was late when we walked back to the hotel otherwise we'd have missed the huge band on northern light spanning over the city last night. It was as thrilling as I've been told. It looked like huge green curtains moving in an unseen and unfelt wind in the airspace over Nuuk.

The plank

In the small settlements the plank is what it says- a plank where the hunters present their catch to potential customers. In Nuuk the principle is the same albeit on a larger scale. Large tables are decorated with reindeer, whale, dried fish and huge iced buckets filled with various and excotic cuts of fish etc.

Black plate

Modern greenlandic kitchen is probably very far from the hunters basic diet. This titilating plate contained seal on a pear gel and whale sashimi on what could be marshmallows but is lemon foam. It was tasty but I think I've had enough sea mammals for now. Now hopefully I'll get some of the offerings from land.

The good, the bad and the ugly

So much had been said in Ilullisat about Nuuk. And yes it doesn't have the same colorful beauty. But on a sunny day with snowy white peaks the city definite has a charm. The old social housing does look like a plan economic nightmare, but that is just part of the city and although ugly it has a certain charm discovering the clash between modern city life and traditional hunter culture like reindeer antlers placed proudly and prominently on the rail of the housing balcony. I've found the greenlanders enjoy ornamate decorations in their houses and in the city room also. Many a place has a sculpture or a small memorial. It's both charming and decorative.

Humpbacks

The trip to Eqi was crowned with a view of 3 humpback whales. In all humbleness it was me who noticed them among a flock of sea gulls. Unfortunately, we didn't see their tailfinns when they dived after about 5 min. Awesome creatures.

Donner ohne Blitzen

Kapow - the sound blasts like the shot of a canon or sometime thunder while fragments of ice tear off the glacier. The sound is oddly disproportionate to sight of the rushing ice. What a spectacle!

Mamartut

Ilulissat is quite small. You can walk all over the town in 10 minutes. The 4500 inhabitants enjoy the many tourists coming to see the glacier and icebergs. Mamartut is probably the finest cuisine in the place. It serves modern greenlandic food. I forgot.to take pictures of the tapas plate made with local meats and fish. This whale (mink) carpachio was however wonderful: Sweet, salt and tasty.

Blueberry toffee swirl

I learned that icebergs are not just icebergs. The ice comes in many many colors - white, blue, black, clear, filled with mud and so on. The lump slightly on the right was the most unusual and reminded me of the toffee we got at the candy baron this summer.

Mind the

City planning requires ingenuity when the ground is hardened with perma frost. Ilulissat is laying sewage pipes with dynamite. The pipes are ny the way heated with warm water and run in to the bay. Electric cables lie in metal casing on the rock. All houses have a water tank. Small lamps on the houses tell if the tanks are full or empty. Red is full. Green means empty. So no maritime significance here. The city itself is picturesque. Multi colored houses strewn over the rocks. And 2000+ sleigh dogs laying chained except for the cubs among the houses creating am atmosphere with their howling and sneering.

A room with a view

A stunning view of the Disco bay from hotel Icefjord. What a spectacular surprise to enter the room and see this. I had to sleep with the curtains open and the sunrise was just stunning. I was awestruck how the dark blue and gray gradually changed to pink, then yellow and then white. Who then minded waking up at 5 due to the time difference.

Kangerlussuaq

First stop in Greenland - beautiful but barren. The central airport in the country is slightly larger than a provincial train station and equally exciting. However, 2 hours sitting in the full but low sun was nice.